A Parent’s Guide to Buying a Kid’s Horse

At ELS, parents frequently ask us for advice on choosing a horse for their child. Here is what we tell them.

1. Sign your child up for riding lessons. Enroll your child in regular riding lessons (at least once a week) with a reputable instructor who can provide horses for lessons. Look for a program that includes other children, so your child has kids his or her age to learn with and from.
2. Join a horse club. Sign your child up to be a member of a local 4-H horse club or local chapter of the U.S. Pony Club. Both 4-H and Pony Club offer a wealth of opportunities for you and your child to learn about horses and develop horsemanship and leadership skills. They provide fun, safe and encouraging environments and focus on teamwork and responsibility. These clubs are family-based organizations — as a parent, expect to volunteer and learn along with your child. (Note: You do not need to own a horse to join either of these organizations.) To find the right horse club for your child, ask for recommendations from their riding instructor and others in the horse community. You can get more information about your local 4-H horse clubs and club leaders’ names and contact information by calling your county’s cooperative extension service.
3. Lease a horse. If your child demonstrates a sustainable interest in horses and you find weekly riding lessons do not provide him or her with enough “horse time,” consider a full or partial lease of a horse for at least six months. Leasing is an arrangement in which you pay either a fixed fee or a portion of the horse’s expenses in exchange for riding time on that horse. In the typical full lease, you take over all the horse’s expenses and care responsibilities, and in a typical partial lease, the owner remains primarily responsible for these items. Ask your child’s instructor to recommend a leasing situation for you. ELS offers lease agreement forms that clarify the owner’s and the lessee’s responsibilities to make your leasing experience a pleasant one. Another advantage to leasing is it sometimes results in the owner being willing to sell you the horse because they are happy with the partnership that has developed between the horse and your child and approve of the facility and instructor. Of course, you would only want to do so if the instructor also agreed the horse was a good choice for your child.
4. Purchase a horse. If, and only if, leasing a horse does not provide enough “horse time” for your child or does not allow them to participate in activities outside of the stable where the leased horse is boarded should you consider purchasing a horse or pony. Owning a horse or pony is a huge commitment, a lot like going from renting to owning a home.

Horse Budget

An important factor to consider is that getting your child a horse is an investment in their future. Keeping a child actively involved in any sports activity is good for them mentally and physically. Participating in 4-H and Pony Club activities will also teach them hard work, responsibility, social skills, teamwork and other lifelong skills. It will also keep them so busy they are less likely to become involved in “undesirable” activities. As a friend once said, “You can pay for their horse experience now, or you can pay a counselor later.”

Purchase Price

Parents often ask how much they should spend on a horse for their child. The answer is, “That depends …” What are your child’s goals? If your child just wants to go out and have fun and compete at a local level, you should be able to find a suitable horse for $10,000 or less (price will vary greatly depending on the horse market in your area). Suitable horses often become available for purchase or lease when teenagers graduate and go off to college; being in a 4-H club or Pony Club can help you find these horses. But if your child has more serious competitive aspirations, such as showing at more than a local level, talk to your child’s instructor about what you should expect to spend for a suitable horse, and ask them to help find one for you. Keep in mind, however, that your child’s first horse can be a “starter horse” — a horse that is safe for your child and will help teach basic horsemanship skills. Even if your child eventually wants to compete at a national or world level, his or her first horse doesn’t have to be the one that will take them to the top.

Ongoing Expenses

It is very important to understand that the initial purchase price of the horse is just the tip of the iceberg. Here are some of the items you should budget for on a monthly basis, in the approximate order of expense (high to low):

1. Board

• Types of board range from full-care (includes feeding and stall cleaning), to self-care (includes only a place to keep the horse, and the boarder does all the work and provides all the feed and bedding).
• Boarding rates vary tremendously and are highly dependent upon the local market as well as the amenities offered by individual facilities.
• Try to find a boarding facility that is no more than 20 minutes from your home so it will not be a hassle to drive there every day.
• Boarding at a facility where the instructor teaches is much cheaper than having to buy property with acreage, a barn and an arena (and then having to maintain that property).

2. Lessons

• Even if your child has taken lessons for several years, ongoing instruction will allow your child to continue to improve his or her skills.
• A professional instructor can help prevent problems and solve those that do arise, all in an environment that helps your child stay safe.

3. Competitions

• Whether your child is in the local Pony Club or 4-H, he or she will likely want to participate in at least some modest forms of competition, which involves entry fees, horse transportation and special outfits and equipment. Consult your instructor for more guidance on this expense item.

4. Farrier

• Your horse will require regular farrier care every six to eight weeks, and the cost will depend on what type of trimming and shoes the horse requires, as well as your local market.
• Older horses might require special or corrective shoeing to keep them sound, which typically costs more than regular shoeing.

5. Veterinarian

• You should establish a good relationship with a veterinarian before you lease or buy a horse. When you need him or her, you will REALLY need them. Being familiar with your horse can be very beneficial, especially in emergency situations.
• Your horse will likely require shots and deworming at least twice a year. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a vaccination and deworming program for you.
• Your horse will also require emergency or special care from time to time, and you should plan the cost of this care into your budget. To offset the cost, you might wish to purchase a major medical insurance policy on your horse.
• Some horses might also require medications or other treatments, such as joint injections, acupuncture or chiropractic work, to maintain their health and soundness.
• Your horse will also require dental care approximately once a year.

6. Tack and Equipment

• Besides the horse, your initial investment will include a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, grooming supplies, blankets and other basic needs.
• Ongoing expenses will include fly spray, replenishing grooming supplies, repairing and replacing horse blankets and replacing worn-out or damaged equipment.
• Ask your instructor for guidance in choosing equipment and supplies that are good quality and long-lasting, as price is not always a reliable indicator of quality.

7. Feed and Supplements

• Many families wisely choose older horses for their first horse purchase. However, older horses do often require extra feed and supplements to keep them healthy and sound. Consult your veterinarian for more specific nutrition advice.

8. Bedding

• Most boarding facilities provide bedding as part of a full-care program.

9. Unexpected Expenses

• Horses being horses, unexpected expenses will ALWAYS arise — they’re just part of horse ownership!

You should ask your instructor to help you create a realistic budget and talk with other parents about their experience.

Be Aware of Dishonest Sellers!

Crooked horse sellers and horse sale fraud are more common than you think. As a parent, your No. 1 priority should be your child’s safety. You want to buy Old Reliable for your child — a horse that is well-trained, well-mannered and kind, with a quiet, steady temperament. Some sellers will tell you everything you want to hear to sell you a horse, and this could be dangerous for both you and your child! They might even resort to drugging a horse to make it quiet and obedient when you come for a test ride. A good way to avoid making a huge mistake is to do your homework before you start horse-shopping and take an experienced horse person with you to look at, ride and evaluate the horse.

What Kind of Horse Should You Buy?

Again, your No. 1 priority should be your child’s safety. And remember, you need Old Reliable for your child. Your first horse should be one that nearly anyone can handle and ride. If it isn’t, your child will stop having fun and might even become fearful.

Temperament, Temperament, Temperament!

Temperament should be the single most important factor in your horse-buying decision. Old Reliable will be kind, gentle, quiet and calm and won’t kick or bite. You and your child will make mistakes in handling and riding your new horse, and you want him to be tolerant and forgiving, a gentle teacher. Old Reliable should easily allow your child (with adult supervision) to catch the horse in the pasture or stall, halter the horse, lead the horse to the grooming area, tie the horse up, groom the horse, pick out its hooves and saddle, bridle, and mount.

Let your instincts be your guide — even as a novice, you can tell a lot before anyone even rides the horse! Does the horse walk quietly and slowly with your child and wait patiently for your child to tie it up, or does it prance ahead or try to use your child as a scratching post? Does the horse stand still for grooming and saddling, or does it swing its body all over the place? Does the horse wait quietly for your child to tighten the girth (adults should help with this) and mount, or does it step off just as your child is putting his or her foot in the stirrup? Does it pin its ears and wring its tail, or does it wait patiently for your child to finish the job at hand?

Here is a very simple test for temperament. When you go to look at a horse, bring a jacket with you (any kind of jacket). While the seller is riding the horse, carefully place the jacket on the fence near the area where the horse is being ridden. If it’s an open area, place the jacket on the ground. Note the horse’s reaction to the jacket — does he casually notice it and go right on by, or does he screech to a halt or jump sideways? You want a horse to notice the jacket and even be casually interested in it but not afraid of it. He should go right past the jacket without snorting or eye-rolling.

Does the Horse’s Size Matter?

Many parents ask whether they should buy a pony for their child because it is more size-appropriate. The size of the horse is almost completely irrelevant. Even a small pony can be a terror, and the largest horse can be very gentle and quiet. Choose a horse for your child based on temperament, not size. Also keep in mind that as your child grows, he or she might outgrow a pony or small horse, but they will likely never outgrow a good-sized horse. If the horse is too large for your child to mount or saddle without help, they can use a mounting block.

What Breed Should I Buy?

Much like dogs, horses have been selectively bred for generations to develop particular characteristics. Certain breeds, such as Quarter Horses, Paint horses and many types of draft horses, tend to be quiet and docile. Other breeds tend to be more spirited, such as Arabians and Thoroughbreds. However, there are outstanding examples of quiet, docile horses as well as highly spirited horses in every breed. Your child’s instructor can help recommend the right breed(s) for you.

How Much Does a Horse’s Age Matter?

The ideal horse for first-time horse buyers is probably 10-20 years old. Younger horses generally aren’t quiet and experienced enough for a first-time horse owner. Horses can live to 30 years plus with good care, so don’t exclude older horses from your search. At the same time, don’t be tricked into becoming a “forever home” for someone’s horse that is on its last legs. Your veterinarian will be able to advise you on an older horse’s prospects for long-term health and soundness. Some parents dream of buying a young horse for their child so they can “grow up together,” but that is rarely a good idea. More often, the young horse runs roughshod over the inexperienced child or parent and becomes a 1,200-pound dangerous spoiled brat.

Age vs. Experience

Age is never a reliable indicator of a horse’s training and experience. You want a horse that has been there, done that — well-trained and very experienced under saddle. There are older horses out there that have been “pasture puffs” and have little or no riding history. Steer clear of any horse advertised as “needs finishing” or “green” or “ready to go in any direction.” Choose a horse that is currently doing exactly what you want him to do. For example, if trail riding interests your child, choose a very experienced trail horse.

Gelding or Mare

Although there are many quiet mares that never show signs of being in season, as a general rule, geldings tend to be more reliable and less moody. Under no circumstances should you purchase a stallion for your child. The classic Black Stallion books by Walter Farley are works of fiction, and in real life, The Black probably would have seriously injured or killed Alec, his young admirer, even though he might not have meant to do so.

Should I Care About Color?

In a word, NO! There is an often-quoted saying that “a good horse doesn’t have a bad color.” Your child might have his or her heart set on a golden palomino or flashy black and white pinto. Don’t give in to them! Eliminating horses because your child doesn’t like the color will shrink an already small list of potential horses and might eliminate a horse that would have been perfect for your child. Once the horse is settled in its new home and your child is having a great time riding and taking lessons, they will most likely forget they originally wanted a horse of a different color. Temperament, suitability and experience should trump beauty every time!

What About Buying a Horse at an Auction?

DON’T. DO. IT. Don’t be sucked in by the urge to “rescue that poor horse.” Some suitable horses end up at an auction sale due to no fault of their own. But, for every horse that would be a good choice for your child, 99 others are at the auction for a reason. They could be sick, lame, injured, have cancer, have genetic defects, be dangerously aggressive, buckers, kickers, rearers … the list is long. It is not uncommon for horses to be given drugs before going in the sale ring. Sometimes it is just for the safety of the horse and auction pen workers (an excited horse in a tiny pen with a PA system and people yelling out bids can be a bit much for even a well-broke horse). But often it is to make the horse look quieter, safer and more sound than it is. You might get your new horse home or to its new barn only to have the drugs wear off and the horse become a crazy, dangerous, 1,200-pound snorting ball of fire.

Is It OK to Buy a Horse From Just a Video?

No! Never buy a horse without seeing it and trying it in person. Videos are great but can be edited to remove portions where the horse is not behaving or even showing lameness. You can’t tell if the horse had to be longed for three hours before it was safe to get on, you can’t tell the type of bit being used, and it’s too easy for the seller to give the horse an anti-inflammatory drug and/or a sedative to make it appear sound and quiet. We have even seen videos of high-end Western pleasure prospects that were video-edited to make the horse look like it is jogging and loping more slowly than it is. So even if the seller offers to send you a video, insist that you see and try the horse in person. And if they won’t let you come to their facility to see the horse, that’s a big red flag — pass on that one.

What About Social Media Sales Posts Showing ‘Bombproof’ Horses with Children Riding Them?

There seems to be a new trend to use social media to advertise “bombproof, kid-safe, do-anything” horses and ponies for kids at rather high prices. The seller will tell you the prices are high because “kid-safe” horses and ponies are hard to find, so they are worth a lot of money. They’ll tell you anything you want to hear to get you to buy a horse or pony from them. Some offer a “money-back guarantee,” but good luck getting the seller to honor that guarantee if you are dissatisfied. All the reasons not to buy online are mentioned in “Is It OK to Buy a Horse From Just a Video?” above. Don’t do it! You need to see and try the horse in person.

Where Can I Find ‘Old Reliable’?

Every parent wants an Old Reliable for their child’s first horse. Unfortunately, Old Reliables are few and far between and seldom on the market. Instead, Old Reliable tends to be passed down from child to child within a family, between members in a 4-H or Pony Club group or among families that are clients of an instructor. Because you have already signed your child up for lessons with a professional instructor and a 4-H or Pony Club group (you have, right??), you are already on the right track to finding a suitable horse for your child.

Your child’s instructor should be actively involved in your horse-buying process. Before you do anything else, consult with the instructor about your horse-buying criteria and budget. Have them help you put together a list of requirements you can look for when you start your search. You can browse sale ads on your own — Dreamhorse is a good internet sale site to begin your search. You can also browse classified ads on your own, and many local feed and tack stores have For Sale boards where people post their horses for sale. At local horse shows, horses are frequently being marketed for sale. Most trainers and instructors have a good network and often contact each other when they have a horse to sell or need to find a horse for a client, so your instructor is a good resource when beginning your search.

There are so many sale ads — how can you narrow the list? Start with geography. Eliminate the horses that are more than a day’s drive from your home, because you will want to see the horse in person before buying. Next, sort by age, gender and breed. Finally, read the text of the ads and eliminate the following:

• Pregnant mares. Foaling and raising a foal is NOT a project for novice horse people. Additionally, your child won’t be able to ride in the weeks before and months after the foaling. Avoid any ads that say “in foal.”
• Horses not suitable for a beginner. If the ad says the horse needs an intermediate or advanced rider, believe it and move on.
• Hyper horses. Code words include “spirited,” “has a lot of go,” “big motor,” “barrel prospect,” “gymkhana prospect,” “endurance prospect,” “needs strong rider,” “needs quiet rider,” etc.
• Horses that are a pain in the a$$. Code words might include “can be stubborn at times,” “needs a confident rider,” “can be pushy,” etc.
• Horses that aren’t well-trained enough for your child. Code words include “great X prospect” or “in training for X” (where X = what the seller thinks a buyer might want to do with the horse). See also “loads of potential,” “well-started,” “needs finishing,” “ready to start,” “still growing” and “will mature to X.”
• Horses that have health or soundness problems mentioned in the ad. Code words include “needs special shoeing,” “needs some maintenance,” “would make a good walk/trot horse,” “broodmare prospect only,” etc. EXCEPTION: A horse described as “serviceably sound” might work for your needs, but only your veterinarian can tell you for certain.

What do you want to see in an ad?

• Horses with a good temperament. Code words to look for include “bombproof,” “quiet,” “steady” and “calm.” In search functions that have a scale of 1-10, where 10 is the most spirited, you want to look for something close to a 1 and no more than a 5.
• Horses that are well-trained. Look for a “proven youth horse” that “anyone can ride.”

And now some words of caution. Just because the ad says the horse is “bombproof,” “child-safe,” “currently being shown by a child” or “more whoa than go” doesn’t mean the seller is telling the truth. See Beware of Dishonest Sellers! above.

Another word of advice: If the seller claims the horse has been shown and has a show record, find out the horse’s breed or discipline, registered name and registration number. If the horse has been shown in USEF competitions, for instance, you can look up the horse’s show record online for free. Most breed associations require a paid membership to access their records online, so see if you can find someone who is already a member, and ask them to look up and print out the horse’s show record for you. If the horse has been shown locally, ask around the local horse community and see if anyone knows the horse. You might find out the horse’s accomplishments were overstated, or the horse has no show record at all.

Print the ads for horses you think might be suitable, and run them by your instructor. With their help, you can narrow your search and develop more specific criteria, then develop a list of horses to call and inquire about. Just like buying a used car, buying a horse involves a degree of creativity in interpreting the text of an ad. ELS’ “Equine Advertising Translation Guide,” while meant to be funny, also includes more than a kernel of truth.

When you have identified ads for suitable-sounding horses your instructor has approved, you can begin calling about them and asking questions using ELS’ free horse-buying checklist. Trust your instincts: If you don’t like the answers to your questions, the seller is unresponsive or the seller doesn’t answer your questions fully and openly, don’t waste your time by going out to look at the horse. And don’t be intimidated by the fact you are a first-time horse buyer — any seller who treats you rudely or speaks condescendingly to you is not someone from whom you want to buy a horse for your child.

Going to Look at Kids’ Horses: 20 Do’s and Don’ts

Once you have called and inquired about all the horses in the ads you have selected, go over your list and notes with your instructor and eliminate any horses your instructor does not approve. You can continue to use ELS’ horse-buying checklist as a tool for evaluating the horses you see in person. Here are a few tips to sharpen your horse-buying skills and etiquette.

DON’T allow your child (unless he or she is an older teen) to make the calls about the horse. DO make the calls yourself, using the horse-buying checklist. DON’T rely too heavily on email or text messaging — it’s often quicker to make a call then ask lengthy questions in email or by text. But if you do call them, take careful notes of your conversation and answers to your questions.

DON’T start calling about or looking at horses in person until you are ready to buy. Few things are more irritating to a horse seller than a tire kicker.

DON’T look at horses priced more than 20% over your horse-buying budget, unless you have good reason to believe the seller will negotiate the price to fit within your budget.

DON’T try to negotiate the price before you have seen the horse. Wait until you have thoroughly tried the horse and received your instructor’s approval, THEN negotiate.

DO call and make an appointment with the seller before coming out to look at a horse, and don’t be late. Ask the seller to please wait until you arrive to catch the horse and get it ready so you can see if the horse is easy to catch, how it behaves while being groomed and tacked up and how long it takes to be warmed up before being ridden. That will allow you to see if the horse stands quietly when tied, if he is “cinchy” (cinchy horses will sometimes rear back and throw themselves on the ground if the cinch is tightened too quickly), if they have to tie the horse short because it tries to bite you when you’re putting the saddle on and if the horse requires extensive longeing to get the “edge” off so it is safe to ride. If you will be late or need to cancel or postpone the appointment, call or text the seller as soon as you know. Getting a horse ready to show to prospective buyers is hard work, and the seller deserves your courtesy.

DO take your instructor with you if possible. They are much more experienced than you and will be able to see faults you will not. And as your child’s instructor, they are the best judge of what horse will best suit your child’s needs. Just remember, your instructor is a professional, and you should expect to pay for their time and expertise.

DO make sure you have good directions to the horse’s location. GPS can be somewhat unreliable in rural areas, so get backup directions from the seller. DO get the seller’s cell phone number so you can call if you get lost.

DO leave nonhorsey friends and family members at home, including small children who won’t be the primary riders of the horse. This includes infants in strollers.

DON’T bring your dog, even if he’s on a leash.

DO make sure each family member wears appropriate clothing, even if they are not going to ride, and that means jeans (or breeches) and heeled boots. Your child should bring and wear his or her safety helmet (you did buy them an approved riding helmet, right??). For safety’s sake, no one should wear shorts, flip-flops or sandals.

DO look around the facility. Observe what is in the trash cans (tubes of calming paste, empty syringes or empty bottles of acepromazine?) and the condition of the other horses.

DO have the seller ride the horse before you or your child ride the horse. And if your instructor is with you, have them ride the horse before you or your child get on.

DON’T be afraid of offending the seller if you decide the horse isn’t right for you. As soon as you are certain of this, you can simply politely inform the seller you don’t think it’s a good match and say your goodbyes. This will save both your time and the seller’s.

If the horse appears suitable, DO have your child perform all the tasks listed above under “Temperament, Temperament, Temperament” when you go to look at the horse. If your child can’t perform these tasks with this horse, it’s time to move on.

DON’T ruin your negotiating power and tempt yourself to buy too soon by showing up with a horse trailer in tow.

DO take plenty of photos and video.

DO take notes about what you observe. Put a copy of the horse-buying checklist for each horse on a clipboard and have a pen handy. Take notes so you don’t forget what you see. This is especially important if you are looking at several horses the same day.

DO have your instructor come out in person and preapprove the horse before you purchase.

DO talk over the horse’s price with your instructor to make sure he or she feels the horse is priced fairly (and, if not, what a fair price would be).

DO listen to your instructor! If he or she says a horse is unsuitable, don’t argue. Just move on, no matter how beautiful the horse is or how much your child wants it.

Physical Signs a Horse Might Not Be What It Seems

There are some physical signs you can be on the alert for that might indicate the horse has been given a calming agent or sedation. Keep in mind that sometimes it might just be the way that horse is — droopy ears, stumbling gait (in which case the horse might not be safe to ride), floppy lower lip, or drooling. See how long it takes for the horse to respond to a stimulus, such as a dog or a loud sound — a horse that turns its head slowly might be sedated. A dead giveaway for a gelding is that his male part might be distended and, if asked to walk or jog, he might not put it away (sorry, but this is a good way to tell). This is why it’s important that, if you are interested in purchasing the horse, you have your vet draw blood for potential drug testing.

Also, some sellers might try to hide the fact that the horse is deaf or has vision problems. Some horses have white on their faces that extends far up above the eyes and near the ears. If it does, look at how the horse carries its ears. Deaf horses often have ears that point out and down more than a horse with good hearing. Make sure you ask the seller — if the horse is deaf it should be noted in the purchase agreement. Deafness might not be a deal-breaker — deaf horses can be used successfully in performance events (and can even be an advantage as the horse won’t hear loud noises and spook as a result). But it is something to discuss with your instructor to get their thoughts on how it might affect what your child will be doing with the horse. Bad vision, on the other hand, is more likely to be an issue. Horses with bad vision, eye diseases, or blindness should be scratched off your list.

Negotiating the Price

DO NOT be influenced by the seller who tells you another prospective purchaser is making an offer, coming out to see the horse or otherwise tries to pressure you into making a decision before you are ready. That is a very common tactic used by sellers to get you to commit to a purchase. If another purchaser does actually buy the horse before you make an offer, you will find another horse. Counsel your child (and anyone else accompanying you to look at the horse) not to discuss price, and absolutely do not disclose your horse-buying budget to anyone other than your instructor. Also counsel your child not to be overly enthusiastic about the horse in front of the seller – save that discussion for the ride home. Make sure your child understands in advance you will not buy any horse until your child’s instructor has approved it.

Once you have identified what you think is a suitable horse, have your instructor come out a second time to fully evaluate the horse. A benefit of having your instructor involved in the selection process is that, because you purchased the horse based on their recommendation, he or she will do everything in their power to make the horse work for your child. You should expect your instructor to charge you for the time that he or she spends looking at horses for you to buy. You are seeking his or her professional opinion, and that opinion is worth paying for. Be sure to ask up front how much this service will cost so there are no surprises. If your instructor does not approve of the horse, do not buy it, no matter how much your child may want it – your instructor is a trained professional and you should trust his or her opinion. If you buy the horse against your instructor’s recommendations, be prepared to have to find a new facility and instructor! At the very least, the instructor may not be vested in making the horse and your child a successful team.

You can expect most horse sellers to negotiate on the asking price. A lot like buying a used car, how much the seller is willing to negotiate depends upon market conditions, how long the horse has been for sale, the seller’s personal and financial circumstances, and, to a certain degree, how much the seller likes you and thinks you will provide a good home for their horse. Before you make any offers, discuss with your instructor what they think a fair price is. If the horse is fairly priced up front, you may not even want to negotiate. Keep in mind you are not at a swap meet – you don’t want to insult the seller by offering a price that is ridiculously low (more than 20% less than what they are asking). If the seller won’t negotiate on the price, perhaps they would agree to deliver the horse or provide some other concession that would be helpful, such as sending the horse’s winter blanket along with him. Only in unusual circumstances is any tack included in a horse sale, although most sellers do include a halter (some states even legally require horses to be sold with a halter).

Sales Commissions

Your instructor may charge a buyer’s commission on any horse he or she selects for you, and this charge may be in addition to, or in lieu of, any fees he or she charges to look at horses for you. Be sure to ask up front how much the commission will be. Commission rates for buyers typically run from 10-20% of the purchase price and are typically paid by the buyers. Note that a single horse sale may involve two commissions – one to the seller’s instructor (paid by the seller) and one to the buyer’s instructor (paid by the buyer).

After you have selected a horse, if your instructor does not want to charge you for his or her help in buying your horse, consider presenting him or her with a nice token of your appreciation, such as a gift certificate to a tack shop or restaurant, or even some homemade cookies.

Always Do a Veterinary Prepurchase Exam!

Once you and your instructor have identified a suitable horse, you should make arrangements with the seller to have a pre-purchase examination by an equine veterinarian. Choose a veterinarian who has not seen the horse before (ask your instructor for a recommendation). Both you and your instructor should be present for the vet check to hear the vet’s comments firsthand. Rarely will a vet outright “pass” or “fail” a horse on a vet check. Instead, they will relate their observations to you and give you their opinion of whether the horse will be able to perform your intended uses and if any maintenance may be required to keep it sound and healthy (this could include corrective shoeing, regular chiropractic adjustments or massage, or special supplements or injections to manage wear and tear caused by years of use). You will then be responsible for making a decision based upon those observations. Your vet will check the horse’s soundness and general health and may recommend further testing or X-rays for a more complete evaluation. Because it is fairly common for sellers to administer painkillers, sedatives, and other drugs that can mask lameness or enhance performance, we highly recommend having your vet draw blood at the time of the exam. Your vet can store that blood back at the clinic and test it for various substances if the horse’s behavior or soundness changes abruptly after your purchase. A typical vet check will cost $500-1,000, and the cost will be on the higher end if X-rays or further tests are recommended, but it is the best way to make sure you do not buy expensive or heartbreaking health or soundness problems, so well worth the price – even if it costs more than the purchase price of the horse! More information about pre-purchase veterinary examinations.

Get It in Writing!

One of the most important aspects of purchasing a horse is having a good purchase contract! A well-written purchase contract should clearly state the terms of your purchase, including any representations and warranties the seller has made about the horse. A contract needs to protect you if the horse turns out to be something other than what the seller has represented it to be. This is also where having the blood sample taken by the vet can be worth the cost. If a horse’s behavior or soundness changes in the 30 days after you get the horse home or to its new barn, the legal language in your contract may be your only recourse. Make sure you choose a contract specifically written for PURCHASING a horse, not SELLING one. ELS offers a variety of horse purchase forms you can download and complete.

After you have negotiated the purchase price, sit down with the seller and fill out the horse purchase contract. If the seller refuses to sign your contract, that is a red flag. An honest seller will not have any issue with the terms in the contract, but a seller who is trying to trick you into buying a lame horse will likely refuse to sign.

If the horse is registered, make sure your purchase contract specifies the seller is the legal owner and they must sign all registration and other documents over to you at the time of the sale. If available, look at the registration papers and make sure the photo and/or description matches the horse you are considering buying.

We have some great information on our website to help you in your quest to buy a horse. We have a number of articles written specifically for buyers, but to help understand the seller’s perspective, we also recommend reading the articles for sellers.
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We wish you the very best of luck in finding a horse to become a member of your family!